Monday, August 31, 2009

Week 7: “Camaron, Camaron!”

30 Sec. Update: I keep checking the calendar to make sure that I have really been in Chile for a month and half. This week was the fastest yet, but continued to be full of small and big adventures. This weekend was spent at home which very relaxing. I stayed up late Friday night drinking pisco and playing “Uno” and “Liar's Dice” with one of the teacher's from my school. Slept in late Saturday and in the afternoon I went for a long run out into the countryside. Saturday night I went to a folklore show with my host-teacher and danced to some great guitar solos. On Sunday, the time had once again arrived for another adventure out in the countryside: “sacando camarones” or pumping crawdads out of the ground. This process is best described through video, so see below. In the end we caught about two dozen, which was our Sunday night dinner. With tomorrow being September 1st concluding the first third of my stay in Chile, the end of November already feels like it is drawing close.


Only in the “Skinny One” (Onces):
My favorite time of my day is after I get home from a long day of work and share “onces” with my family. Onces are a large late night snack (Chileans don't really do dinner) that happens around 8 or 9 PM. Two things are guaranteed to be on the table for onces: a hot beverage and bread. While that may seem like nothing to get excited about, one of the reasons why I love “onces” is getting to choose the hot beverage and the toppings for bread. The options for hot drinks are: Milo (a powdered milk that is served warm), Tea, Coffee (always Nescafe—the Chilean version of Folgers), and my personal favorite Ecco (a coffee-like cereal drink). The options for the home-made bread are: Manjar (a sweet carmel-colored spread that is made by boiling down condensed milk), butter, home-made cherry preserves, my favorite Pate (a rich meat flavored spread), and occasionally cheese or deli meat. The possible combinations are limitless.


The time of day is also what makes Onces so special. It's the only time that everyone is around the table, no one is in a rush to go to school/work, and it's last thing we do before bed. The conversation always builds as the meal progresses. At first no one is talking because everyone is famished not having eaten anything in the last six hours. Eventually as everyone sips on their hot cup of Nescafe and eats some bread fresh out of the oven, the conversation gradually builds and often errupts into debates about who is the best soccer team, impromptu Spanish and English lessons, and discussions about the telenovelas or TV news. Onces will last anywhere between 1 hour to 3 hours. After several cups of Ecco, I usually toasty warm and ready to slip into bed until the next morning.

“Sacando Camarones” (Pumping Out Crawdads):
Walking through a street fair on my first morning in Los Alamos my host-father had pointed out a bucket full of crawdads and called them “camarones,” the word that I had learned as shrimp in my Spanish classes. Clearly camarones meant something different in Chile and that morning my host-father promised to take me out sometime to “sacar camarones,” which up until this weekend I could guess the meaning.

On Sunday afternoon, equipped with a plastic grocery bag, a box full of rubber booties, and two hand pumps (a.k.a. “bombos” which look something like bazookas), we all piled into the truck to go in search of camarones. After a 20-minute ride outside of Los Alamos, we parked at the side of cow pasture and suited up. Now wearing the rubber booties and with our pants hiked up our legs, we gingerly slipped through the barbwire fence and began the hunt. Our query lived in water filled tunnels under the pasture. Armed with the bombos, we would searched for the entrances to the tunnels and began to pump. In order to create the suction, you need to stuff the tip of your boots into one of the entrances and began pumping from the other.



We only found camarones in about a quarter of the holes that we pumped, but after a hour and half of work, we had about two dozen in our plastic bag. I failed to actually pump out one myself (it's much harder than it sounds), but I did assist the capture of several by stuffing my boots into holes.

Back at home a hot boiling pot of water was prepared to cook our hard-earned meal. The camarones were delicious, although a lot of work for a little meat (especially divided amongst eight people). It would be tough making a living off camarones, but somehow people do it (a man came to the door our house the week before last selling camarones). Fortunately we had other seafood to eat along with our camarones, but either way it was another unforgettable experience from my time in Chile.

Feeling Useless: Maybe this is just a reaction to the fact that I spent the last four years of my expensive “liberal education” in books and in front of my computer, but I can't help feeling useless while I'm here in Chile. I am continually impressed with the number of useful skills of both my host-parents here. In my short time living in Los Alamos, I have seen my host-father do the work of an electrician, construction worker, butcher, fisherman, auto mechanic, and play the piano & guitar all on top of his “real” 9 to 5 job as the high school inspector who, to the best of my understanding, resolves all of the disciplinary problems in the school.

When I graduated this past May I felt like I had the world at my fingertips and I was capable of doing anything, but every day here I realize how I still lack useful skills. If I wasn't born in an English speaking country, I would be just taking up space living here. Being able to write a thirty-five page paper comparing the development of nuclear energy in France to the United States doesn't help when my host-father is asking for my help replace auto parts in his truck. I'm not saying that my four years of college were a waste, I'm just realizing that college prepared me with a very specific set of cerebral skills which won't help me rewire the lighting in my room or carve up a cow into steaks. I'm grateful that I can serve some purpose while I'm living here, but this experience has highlighted some major gaps in my education and skill set. I might be able to excel in a student-oriented academic college environment, but transplant me into the real-world and I am grateful to help with the most menial tasks.

Videos from English Class: These videos were shot during a class that I taught last week on "Where are you from?" and "How old you are?"





Monday, August 24, 2009

Week 6: Men Only in "la Bodega"

30 Sec. Update: The last week flew by. I feel like I was just writing my last blog post. It has been raining a lot in Los Alamos; there has been some rain every day for the last week and a half. My spirits are as high as ever though. Classes again were a success. I had some students skipping their other classes (with their teacher's permission) to attend my class for a second time. This weekend I did some traveling to both Concepcion, the regional capital/urban center, and Lota, a dying mining town on the coastline. In Lota, I guided by an ex-miner crawling around the former mines for a hour and half. Afterwards I spent a long time walking along the beach watching as the waves crash over the rocks. Looking forward to the spring time with warmer days and less rain.

Only in the “Skinny One (“Colectivos”): My host-school is located in Cerro Alto which is a ten minute drive from my home. In order to get to school every morning I commute on a colectivo, which have quickly become one of my favorite things in Chile. A colectivo is a taxi cab which runs a specified route and you can hop on or hop off at any point along the route. For relatively short distances, colectivos are faster, cheaper (a fare is only $0.60), and more comfortable than the buses. The fare is cheap because you share the cab with anyone and everyone along the way. I have ridden in colectivos with as many seven people (the driver, two mothers with their two children, myself and another passenger) packed into a four door sedan.

Sometimes my rides in colectivos are in complete silence and other times I try to strike up conversations with the drivers or other passengers. We talk a lot about the weather and the day to day events in the towns. I have begun to recognize some of the colectivo drivers and I'm hoping that I can learn their names. For now though, I just content being a passenger on this hybrid form of public transportation.

Day Trip to Lota: On Saturday a group of teachers and I went to Lota, a costal mining town which is a ninety minute bus ride north of Los Alamos. Like many mining towns in the United States, the wealth and prosperity brought to Lota by coal in its heyday have dried up after the mining stopped in the 1990's. A city of 50,000, Lota is now one of the poorest cities in Chile. In an attempt to revitalize the city, Lota's mines have since been turned into a tourist attraction in which former miners will take you down into the mine's tunnels and tell you anecdotes from its history.


The mine tour lasted about ninety minutes and was lead by an animated guide who was a living encyclopedia about the mine. The tour started with a descent on a mining shaft elevator several hundred feet underground. Equipped with mining helmets and lanterns, a group of ten of us began our trek through the mines stopping periodically to hear about the conditions down in the mine, the lifestyle of a miner, and random tidbits about the mine's history. I was shocked to hear that kids as young as eight worked in these mines just decades ago. The highlight of the tour was when we were deep in the pitch black mine and we turned off all lights to just listen in silence to the noises of the mine.

After the mine tour, our group of teachers spent several hours hiking around on the beach and the surrounding cliffs. It was too cold to swim but it was peaceful just watching the waves crash along the rocky shore. The day ended in the private gardens of the mine's former owners. The stark contrast between the opulence of the gardens and the poverty that was apparent everywhere in the city was stunning. The thirty five acres of gardens contained plant species from all over the world alongside marble statues and fountains imported from Europe and Asia. Walking through the carefully manicured park I felt like I was in one of the royal gardens in Europe. It was just a glimpse into the fabulous wealth of Lota's mine owners. Overall a great day trip and I highly recommend it to other travelers in Chile.

Quick Profile of my Students: My students are all junior high students between the grades of 5th and 8th. From what I have gathered from them, they range in ages from 9 to 16 years-old. Most of them are from either Los Alamos or Cerro Alto, but a significant number of them are also from the countryside and live at the school as borders. My school, Escuela 798 Claudio Flores Soto, is a municipal (public) primary school. In Chile there are three types of schools: municipal, semi-private, and private schools. For this reason most of my students are also lower-income by Chilean standards.

My students are very friendly and affectionate. If my students see me around town or on the bus they are always animated and eager to talk to me. One of my students even ran across the street to say hello to me before I got onto a bus. When I walk through the hallway, they are eager to get my attention and offer to carry my things for me. They are also typical teenagers. They love listening to music (esp. the Jonas Brothers, Hannah Montana, and of course Michael Jackson), they love to dance, they don't like school, they like junk food, and they love soccer.



The Butcher in “la Bodega:” In my house there are three rooms which are shared by everyone: the living room, the kitchen, and la bodega. This week I spent a lot of my down time in la bodega. La bodega is a small shack which is outside behind my house and is used as a covered work space and tool shed. La bodega is also the “men only” space of the house. A place to work with your hands, a place to share drinks, and a place to hang out.

Previously, I wrote about our search for the perfect cow to slaughter for the wedding. The story continues...After the wedding we were left with over a hundred pounds of cow meat hanging from the ceiling of la bodega. Over the course of several days my host father cut the meat into usable pieces and sold them to his neighbors. I watched alongside my host father as all of this happened. I could never imagine this happening in the United States. All of the meat that I have ever purchased has come prepared on a shrink-wrapped foam tray. With amazing skill my host father worked with a kitchen knife and a handsaw to cut through all of the flesh and bone saving pieces of fat and gristle to give to the dogs. When I asked how he learned to prepare meat like this, he told me that he has done it since he was young kid. Several times a year around important events (Easter, Christmas, Independence Day, and weddings) he will go out to the campo, buy a cow to slaughter, and prepare all of the meat to eat and sell.

While I stood there and watched as my host father work to prepare the meat that we would eat that night for dinner, my thoughts wandered to my environmental science classes. In college, we often talked about how most people have no real idea of where their food comes from. This disconnect between the farm and dinner plate was the source of poor land management, overuse of fertilizers and antibiotics, mistreatment of animals, and the myriad of health problems that come from our diets. Juxtapose that with my host father who met the farmer who owned his cow, walked out into the grassy pasture where the cow lived to select it, watched as the cow was slaughtered, and used his own hands to carve up the meat he would eat. I'm not trying to overly romanticize this lifestyle, but it's hard not feel like I am really living here.

Wrap-Up: Life in Los Alamos is not full of flashy diversions and creature comforts to distract you from the daily events and people all around you. My days are marked by long meals around the kitchen table, exhausting work days at the school, homemade food, reading in front of the fireplace, and deep nights of sleep. Life here moves at a slower pace and is a welcome reprieve from the non-stop pace of college. My challenge during the rest of my time will be figuring out how to bring this lifestyle and what I have learned from this experience back with me to the United States.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Week 5: Feeling at Home

30 Sec. Update: First week of classes went smoothly. I met 150+ students over the course of three days and I'm struggling to remember names. All of the students seemed excited to be in my class and by the end of the 45 min. period I had all of them introducing themselves in English. Friday was the wedding which literally lasted all night. The ceremony started at 8 PM and we danced the night away until 6 AM. I woke up at 3 PM Saturday afternoon. The rest of the weekend was spent recovering from the wedding. On Sunday I went for a nice hike to a suspended bridge outside of Los Alamos. My one month anniversary was Saturday and I looked at the calendar to realize that there are only 100 more days in Chile. I'm already wishing that I had more time here.


Only in the “Skinny One” (Bring Your Own TP): After being in Chile for a couple of days I quickly realized that I shouldn't go anywhere without a roll of toilet paper and some hand sanitizer. Even the staff bathroom at my school lacks both of these necessities. I have never gotten an explanation on why this is so. Is it the cost? Does the TP just run out? Are Chileans just afraid to use toilet paper that is not their own? Or do Chileans just not use toilet paper? [cringe] Whatever the reason, after a few uncomfortable trips to the bathroom I never leave the house without a roll.


Actually using the toilet paper adds an additional challenge because the plumbing in Chile is not strong enough flush down the TP. For this reason, all of the bathrooms in Chile have a small trash can next to the the toilet to dispose of the used toilet paper. It has taken a while to get used to this. My trips to the bathroom are often filled with cursing after I realize that I once again forgot to dispose of the TP in the trash can. After this happens, I'm always afraid that the toilet will clog and my host-family will grumble “Where's the plunger? The gringo did it again!”

Every time I go to the bathroom now, I go through the mental checklist: Did I bring the TP? Check! Did I bring the hand sanitizer? Check! Did I remember to put the toilet paper in the trash? Fuck! I'm sure that I will suffer from reverse culture shock once again back to the US and my mom will be confused why there is always dirty TP in the trash can.


My Four Months of Fame: After 2 weeks in Los Alamos, I have begun to sympathize with Britney Spears. Just in case it hasn't reached the United States, I have achieved celebrity status here in Chile. I walk through hallways of my school to the screams of high school girls, I have given out my autograph on several occasions, and some of my students even shout “I love you” as I pass in the halls. I frequently get asked if I know Hannah Montana, the Jonas Brothers, or Madonna. It has quickly become clear to me that the main reason why my students are interested in English is pop culture. I'm sure that once they realize that I don't actually know any movie stars and that in the US I'm only a mild-mannered college student my celebritydom will end. But for now, my self-esteem has never been higher.

Classes week one went really well. My program director called the first weeks of teaching in Chile “the honeymoon period.” The students were excited to be in classes with the gringo and for a change of pace from their regular classes. The purpose of my time here is to work on their verbal fluency and expose them to a native speaker. With that mission in mind, I have been given a lot of flexibility with how I teach my classes. I try to organize them around a question that would come up in conversation such as, “how many siblings do you have?” or “where are you from?” with interactive games and improv always being a key component.


English Only: My classes are taught entirely in English which adds lots of extra challenges. I have to be very deliberate in how I deliver the instruction by using lots of repetition, cognates (words that sound similar in both Spanish and English), and acting out everything I say. This methodology is the same idea that underlies studying abroad and full immersion language programs. It is frustrating at times for both me and the students but I think in the long-run it will maximize their exposure to native English and (hopefully) their retention. Or at least that is the theory; I'll write back with how much I agree with this theory in 4 months.

“Weddings in Chile go until 6 AM:” A wedding in Chile is a whole-weekend affair. Friday was the wedding, Saturday was spent cleaning and recovering, and Sunday was the leftovers. I was told by a few Chileans beforehand that wedding in Chile go until 6 AM, but I didn't truly believe it until this weekend. The ceremony started at 8 PM, dinner was served at midnight, the cake came around 3 AM, and the dancing stopped at 6 AM. The day after I slept until 3 PM.

The Ceremony: The whole event from start to finish was beautiful and memorable in its own special Chilean way. The ceremony was held at a Pentecostal church which ensured a fiery sermon at the beginning of the ceremony full of “hallelujah's” and “praise the Lord's” (or at least that's what I think they were saying in Spanish). After that, the ceremony was pretty similar to a wedding ceremony in the US: exchanging the vows, the reading of the marriage certificate, and the sharing the wedding rings. At the end of the ceremony, the newly wedded went on a vuelta (a mini-trip) in their decorated car throughout the town. Everyone else rushed to the location of the reception (a local high school cafeteria) to wait for the newly wedded to arrive and perform the waltz.


It was a low-budge wedding in every sense. The reception was held in the high school cafeteria, my host brother was the DJ, my host mother baked the wedding cake, the decorations were homemade, the silverware was mismatched, and the plates were chipped. But anything it lacked in a material sense was made up for by the outpouring of love that was apparent in everyone and everything in that room.

The rest of the night passed quickly. The music was a mix of Salsa, Cumbia, and Reggaton. All the dancing was done in lines with the men on one side and the women on the other. I'm sure that I represented my country poorly on the dance floor but at least the wedding guests got some good laughs. The dancing was only interrupted by the retrieving of the garder, throwing of the bouquet, and the cutting of the wedding cake. It was an unlikely marriage. High school sweethearts who had a child when they were only fifteen-years-old. Five years had passed since their son was born. To have reached this point took the support of a lot of people and it was surely something to celebrate.


Wrap-up: These first two weeks in Los Alamos have been full of reminders of the cycles of life. I attended a wedding, I held a newly born baby, and I carried a casket containing a one hundred and six-year-old woman. Alongside all of these milestones of life, I have begun to establish a rhythm here in Chile as daily routines become a little less overwhelming. I am amazed at how quickly I was integrated into the lives of my host-family and the daily on-goings in Chile. The comfort that I feel with my new family, my new school, and my new home is a testament to the abundant warmth and familiarity of this community. I'm am hopeful for whatever the next one hundred days may bring.

Monday, August 10, 2009

Week 4: Somos Campesinos (“We are country people”)

30 Sec. Update: First week living in Los Alamos was one of the richest and stimulating weeks of my life. I taught a few classes last week but it was mostly introductions and classroom observations. I start teaching in earnest this upcoming week. My classes have 15 to 20 students and I teach straight through from 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM Wednesday through Friday. Mondays and Tuesdays are left for lesson planning, meetings, and a little down time. This weekend I went on a day trip to Cañete and my family and I went to the countryside in search of a “vaquilla” (a medium sized cow) for a wedding this upcoming Friday. I'm loving every minute of it. Every moment here presents something new to be learned or figured out. Even the smallest daily routine like taking a shower with an electric water heater becomes an adventure and a new experience.


Only in the “Skinny One” (Electric Showers): New addition to the blog this week; an attempt to highlight some of the more unique aspects of life in Chile. This week is about showering.

The first shower I ever took in Chile was cold. I turned on the water full blast like I'm accustomed to in the US only to find that the water was freezing. Having already taken off my clothes and too embarrassed to ask my host family what to do, I sucked it up and took a cold one. That night at dinner I asked my host family in my broken Spanish how the shower works. Looking at me confusedly, they immediately took me to the bathroom, turned on the water to a slow trickle, and I watched as lukewarm water came out of the shower head. Not wanting to be rude. I shook my head yes and anxiously awaited my shower the following morning.


On Day 2, I tried again only to find that again the water was cold. Determined to figure this out, I spent the next five minutes changing the water pressure to exactly the right pressure. After much patience and time spent staring at the shower head, I eventually discovered that if you listen carefully you can hear the water heater turn on. The water pressure has to be exactly right otherwise the device will not turn on. The count so far is about 3 cold to 3 lukewarm but I think I have finally figured it out. The other volunteers and I get a good laugh thinking about what it would be like for our family to come to the US and take a steaming hot shower at full pressure. I'm sure that they would have a similar experience to my own. Coming up next week: toilet paper etiquette in Chile.


El Campo: Despite only being in Los Alamos for a week, I have already been to the countryside twice. Both times were equally enchanting and comical. This past Sunday we drove around from farm to farm “shopping” for a medium sized cow. Big enough to feed 85 people at the upcoming wedding (about 250 pounds of beef). What was supposed to be only a 2 hour excursion quickly turned into a 4 hour adventure. I drank a glass of “leche crudo” (milk literally straight from the udder), walked through several large green pastures in search of the right size cow, and spoke with several campesinos about the United States, the Chilean winter, and size of their cows. It was the perfect way to spend a Sunday morning.


My other experience in the campo was earlier in the week. Last Thursday I was being picked up from school by my host-teacher's husband (Oscar) to be taken home after a long day of observations and teaching. It was 5 PM and I hopped into his truck and he said: “Vamos al campo.” [“We are going to the countryside”]. To which I didn't really have a response except for “Si!”

After talking to him for a while, I was able to discern that he owned a potato farm out in the countryside and one of his worker's vans had a dead battery. The two of us continued on down a muddy, dirt road for about 20 minutes to arrive at the side of forested valley with several acres of potato fields on the valley floor. We spent the first half hour trying to jump start the van which was unsuccessful. Then we tried to tow the van using the truck which resulted in the van getting stuck in the mud. After we pushed the van out of the mud, finally we filled the bed of the truck with firewood to give it more traction. With the added weight, we successfully managed to get the van up to 20 mph and it was able to start.

By this time it was 7 PM and Oscar again surprised me by saying: “Vamos a la estación de radio.” [“We are going to the radio station.”]. I was already a hour late coming home, but he assured me that it would only take five minutes. I knew that it wouldn't just take five minutes but he was the driver and I didn't really feel like trying to argue with him so we headed to the radio station. I found this out later, but Oscar is a city council member in Los Alamos. He was being interviewed on the radio about the rise in alcohol and drug use amongst the town's youth. He was using the radio interview to promote an upcoming community meeting to voice concerns about this problem.

As we drove to the radio station, we were listening to the station's broadcast. The radio DJ began to introduce Oscar, but we still had yet to arrive at the radio station. Another song went on the radio and we raced at 60 miles per hour through the town to get to the radio station (in case you are wondering, the speed limit was 35 mph). We arrived at the station, Oscar walked through the doors, and within sixty seconds he was being interviewed live on the radio. After the interview, I met the DJ and told him a little bit about my teaching in Chile. He seemed genuinely interested in what I had to say and we scheduled a radio interview for this upcoming week. I arrived at home a little bit before 8 PM and exasperatedly tried to explain everything that happened. My host family lightly scolded me for being late, congratulated me on the radio interview, and we sat down for dinner. So ended another day in Chile.


Wrap-up: When I was in Santiago, one of the veteran teachers advised us to “just be liquid” during our time in Chile. I have taken his advice to heart and let life fall as it will. Every day has been full of small and big adventures which could fill many more pages of this blog. In this past week there was an intense indoor soccer game with all of the male teachers at the school, an electronic keyboard serenade by our host father, star-struck students who ask for my autograph and tell me “I love you,” hilarious conversations with strangers riding public transportation, and lots of time spent just sitting around the table talking.

Last night my host father and I shared a couple drinks before we went to bed. We talked about everything from my shoe size to car culture in Chile. Every time that we took a sip, we would make a toast. We toasted to family, Chile, Norteamericanos, marriage, my first week in Los Alamos, and friendship. It was a fitting way to end my first week in Chile. After only a week here in Los Alamos, I feel completely at ease living here. Altogether we are a family of ten living under the same roof but our close quarters only makes us closer. If this first week is any indicator of what's to come in the next 6 months, in the words of my host-father, this experience is going to be "inolvidable."

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Week 3: Goodbye Quirihue, Hello Los Alamos!

30 Sec. Update: Whoops! I should have known better than to get too attached to a particular town. On my way to Quirihue I found out that I would actually be going to Los Alamos, a slightly bigger town of 18,000 several hours south of Quirihue. Despite the mix-up, I was greeted by my host family at the bus station with signs saying “Welcome Kevin!” and open arms. So much has happened since my last blog post. The last 72 hours have been a whirlwind of meeting my home stay family, getting a tour of Los Alamos, meeting our host teachers, and visiting our host schools all on top of trying to adjust to life in a Spanish speaking country. Life is wonderful in so many ways. Every day is a new adventure and full of laughter. Photos to come in the next couple of days.

El Embajador de los Gringos: Upon my arrival to Los Alamos I also found out that I will be sharing my homestay with two other volunteer teachers Karyn (a 27 year old from Buffalo, NY) and Matt (a 22 year old from Minneapolis, Minnesota). I met them during orientation and am excited to share the experience with them. Matt and I share a room with a private bathroom. Karyn and Matt are working at "el liceo" (the local municipal high school) and I am working at the elementary school. Neither of them speak much Spanish so I have served as “el traductor” (the translator) and “el embajador de los gringos” (the gringo ambassador).


My Second Family: I LOVE my host family. They are very nice and excited to have us. Our host parents are amazing. Luis, our father, is in charge of discipline at the local school. Every morning he drives us in a truck to the local school. He is very helpful around the house and curious about English. He knows a few words of English and occasionally he will say a random word in English which is met with laughter. Luis took us on a walk throughout the town Sunday morning and we visited el centro, la plaza, el liceo, and la feria (the outdoor market).He seemed to know half the people in the town.


Our host mom, Iris, is the force that ties us all together. She is so warm and caring that we can't help but feel like part of the family. She is a great cook and has a very welcoming smile. Some of my favorite moments so far have been sitting at the table with her sharing a cup of coffee. Also living at the house are Luis and Iris' children Matias (a 17-year-old who attends “el liceo”) and Sandra (a 27-year-old who is a teacher at “el liceo”). In addition there are three other Chilean high school boarders who live in el campo and stay with us during the week. The high school students are in love with American music and they were amazed by our iPods quizzing us on the names of songs and bands (Michael Jackson, Green Day, Aerosmith, 50 Cent).


It is not a big house but we all seem to get along well. We have lots of long meals sharing stories, eating lots of home-made bread, and tecito & cafecito. My Spanish is just good enough to hold conversations and crack jokes which has been the most rewarding part. There are still plenty of moments where I just look at them confused and say “no entiendo” (I don't understand), but I feel very comfortable in Spanish and I can already tell that it is going to improve immensely.


La U v. Colo Colo: Last night after dinner the family had an animated argument over the best soccer team in Chile. Luis, Matias, and Iris supporting “la U” (the University of Chile) against Sandra and the boarders supporting “Colo Colo” (the big rival team). Both sides tried to convince us of the better team. Apparently the rivavlry is so fierce that when the two teams play against each other the stadium has to double the number of security and police officers to prevent riots. When I announced that I went to a soccer game last week between Argentina and “la U” back in Santiago, the kitchen exploded with excitement. Luis ran into the other room to grab his jersey for “la U,” made me put it on, and take pictures with him. All of the fans of “Colo Colo” were in disbelief and ostracized me for the rest of the night. I don't think the Yankees and the Red Sox rivalry even comes close.


The Host School: Yesterday we went to the host schools and all of the English teachers at the school. All of them have wonderful senses of humor and they speak perfect English except my teacher, America, who despite her name does not speak a word of English. I think I got paired with her for that reason. It's so funny to me that a woman who speaks hardly any English could be the school's English teacher but I definitely feel like I'm needed and will help the students A LOT. I will be working with 5th to 8th grade students. We are just doing lesson planning and and observations this first week but it is exciting to just see the schools where we will be working.

'Til Next Week: Life continues to be full of laughter, Chilenismos, and little surprises like no water in the whole town on our first day of school, the heated family rivalry over support for "la U" and "Colo Colo," and the blood sausage! I'm excited for the coming weeks and feel like I'm in the right place. I miss you all and look forward to sharing more stories.


P.S. Thanks for all of the comments! I love hearing your thoughts and knowing that people are actually reading this blog. :)